The Churches of the North Lakes Area
Bassenthwaite – St Bega’s Church
Location Bassenthwaite / Keswick
St Bega’s Church, Keswick CA12 4QP
The present building dates from pre-Norman times and stands by a busy stream in the grounds of Mirehouse by Bassenthwaite Lake.
The font is dated about 1300 and has an octagonal lead-lined bowl. The 14th century lead crucifix hanging over the pulpit is similar to one in St. Albans Cathedral. There is a wrought iron hourglass used to time sermons. Historical families of the area including the Speddings of Mirehouse are remembered in various tablets and windows. This crucufix which hangs over the pulpit is a replica of a lead crucufix which was discovered in 1874, hidden in the church. The original, now kept safely in the Treasury at Carlisle Cathedral, may date from the 14th century.
Lord Alfred Tennyson stayed at Mirehouse in 1835 while he was writing his poem ‘Morte D’Arthur’ and St Bega’s Church inspired the opening lines:
‘…to a chapel nigh the field, A broken chancel with a broken cross, that stood on a dark straight of barren land,’.
A small distance along the shore you will find a simple open-air theatre erected by the Tennyson Society at the place where it is thought he composed much of the poem. A booklet describing the history of the church can be obtained from the Dodd Wood Old Sawmill Tearoom.
Bassenthwaite – St John’s Church
Location : Bassenthwaite
St John’s Church at Bassenthwaite was built in 1879, to a design by D Brade. It replaced a chapel of ease dating from 1470, which stands at the cross roads. It was built because the church of St Begh, near Bassenthwaite Lake, was too far from the centre of population.
Much of the cost of the Church was met by John Boustead of nearby Armathwaite Hall, and a few other local gentry. The East Apse windows are dedicated to John Boustead and his wife Augusta, and represent the Annunciation, Nativity, Crucifixion, Resurrection, Ascension and Pentecost (by Clayton & Bell).
Boltongate – All Saints Church
Location: Ireby
B5299, Boltongate CA7 1DA
According to Sir Nikolaus Pevsner, this church is one of the architectural sensations of Cumbria. This is not immediately obvious from the outside, but once inside you see what he means, when you find yourself in a steeply arched stone tunnel vault, like nothing else in England. This is supported on massive stone walls about 3 feet thick, buttressed on the East and West sides.
The Church contains several interesting and colourful stained glass windows. The window on the South side of the nave, of St Paul with female Virtues is by Charles Kempe, and the lower west window by another successful 19th Century artist, Thomas Willement.
The Church is Perpendicular, dating from about 1400, although there was an earlier Norman Church before.It is interesting from the outside, with gargoyles peering down from the parapet. There is a small tower, with a door leading to the roof of the North transept. Restoration of this Church was completed in 1991 with the help of English Heritage, the Historic Churches Trust and local people.
Borrowdale – St Andrew’s Church
Location: Stonethwaite / Grange Village
St Andrew’s Church stands amongst superb scenery in the hamlet of Stonethwaite, below the Borrowdale Fells. It is a simple white rough-cast Church with a single bell, and a roof of local slate. Christian settlements are known to have existed here since AD 1200, when the monks of Furness Abbey and Fountains Abbey developed farming and mining interests in the area. The Church was consecrated in 1687 and has subsequently been restored and enlarged.
The Church contains the pulpit brought from Mardale Church in 1937, when the Haweswater Reservoir was built. The small three panel East window shows St Matthew, St Luke, and St Paul, Christ the Good Shepherd, and St Peter, St Mark and St John.
Buttermere – St James’ Church
Location Buttermere
The small picturesque Church of St James is situated above the village of Buttermere at the junction of Honister and Newlands passes. The original chapel was consecrated in 1507, while the present building dates from 1840, and was restored in 1930.
A special feature is the wrought iron ‘Shepherd’s Gate’, at the entry to the porch. There is an antique organ, dated 1820. The East window by Henry Holiday, dated 1893, has Mary, Martha and a cherub head. Wordsworth said ‘A man must be very unsensible who would not be touched at the sight of the chapel of Buttermere’.
There is a stone tablet set into the window sill of a south window as a memorial to Alfred Wainwright, the famous walker and author of guidebooks. The window looks out on his favourite place to walk, Haystacks, where at his wish his ashes were scattered.
Cockermouth – All Saints Church
Location: Cockermouth
Kirkgate, Cockermouth.
All Saints Church has a long history. In 1395 Henry Percy endowed a church here, said to have been ‘the most ancient and beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture in the North of England’. This was replaced in 1711 by a plain building. This burned down in 1850, and a third church was built in the Early English style. The Church was dedicated in 1854, and the Bible and Prayer Book placed in the Church on that occasion are still preserved and on display. The groined ceiling and the Caen stone pulpit are worth noting.
The spire reaches a height of 180 feet and has some particularly splendid carving of the capitals of the pillars. The Church has some fine Victorian stained glass, the west window (1897) by Charles Kempe, and the east window (1853) [above] by John Hardman as a memorial window to William Wordsworth, who was baptised here, and whose father John is buried in the churchyard.
Dean – St Oswald’s Church
Location Cockermouth
St Oswald’s Church lies in a picturesque setting on the edge of the village of Dean. The church dates from the 12th Century, with a chancel added in the 15th Century and the sanctuary in the 17th. An extensive renovation was carried out in 1967-73, including new oak pews and pulpit by Thompsons of Yorkshire, famous for their ‘mouse’ symbol which may be seen here (20 of them!).
Other interesting features include the Norman font, and the 15th Century chancel windows which are excellent examples of their type. The Church is one of only three in Cumbria to have Gargoyles. In the graveyard are several ancient gravestones, and a Preaching Cross, the base of which is 12th Century or earlier, and thought to have been used by the monks of Calder Abbey.
Embleton – St Cuthbert’s Church
Location : Cockermouth
St Cuthbert’s Church, 3/4 mile south of the village of Embleton, built 1806, and remodelled 1884. There are two stained glass windows – artists unknown.
Grange – Holy Trinity Church
Location: Grange Village
Holy Trinity Church in the village of Grange, at the foot of Derwentwater, in Borrowdale was built in 1861. While standing on Grange Bridge, a young lady called Margaret Heathcote remarked how nice it would be to have a chapel in Grange, so she raised the money and within 11 years the Church was built. There is a photograph of Miss Heathcote in the porch showing an aristocratic old lady. The village school was built in her memory.
In 1922 a cross of Borrowdale stone was erected in the churchyard with the names of four Grange men who died in the first world war, and after the 2nd world war, three further names were added.
Ireby Old Church
Location Ireby
The chancel is all that remains of the former parish church of Ireby, which was built in the middle of the 12th Century. A new parish church was built a mile away in 1845, dedicated to St James. The old church fell into disrepair until 1880 when the Ecclesiastical Commission carried out extensive repairs.
It was declared redundant in 1971, and a program of repairs undertaken. There is one service per year on the last Sunday in August. The church’s oustanding architectural features include a beautiful arcade in the East wall, showing three round-headed lancets seperated by Transitional Norman capitals which date from about 1170. Over the door is a tympanum which dates from the late 12th Century. The remarkable stone font, and several other items, are now in the new St James Church. two nave arcade columns were recently reinstated in the churchyard after serving as gateposts in the village.
The Church is now in the care of the Churches Conservation trust.
Isel – St Michael and All Angels’ Church
Location Cockermouth
Situated beside the River Derwent, close to the grounds of Isel Hall, this church is dedicated to St Michael and dates from 1130 AD. Of Norman origin, it contains many interesting features, the Chancel arch being one of the chief architectural beauties.
There is a slate monument of 1632 to Sir Wilfred Lawson, twice MP for Cumberland. The inscription is a verse written by Sir Walter Raleigh the night before he was executed. There are other interesting memorials. The church possesses a White Altar frontal dating from 1902, which was embroidered by the Royal School of Needlework, and contains materials from the hangings in Westminster Abbey.
There are two large stone fragments of an Anglo-Saxon cross shaft, similar to other crosses in the area (Gosforth being the best example). The Triskele Stone, a Viking sculpture, which was one of the church’s treasures, was stolen in 1986. There is now just a photograph of it.
Lorton – St Cuthbert’s Church
Location : Lorton
St Cuthbert’s Church lies midway between High and Low Lorton. It is reached by footpaths from the two villages, and by the ancient Crossgates Lane. The earliest known record of a Church in Lorton is of around 1200. The old Church eventually became ruinous and was replaced with a new building in the early 19th Century.
The chancel was a later addition, with the East window inserted as a memorial to Anthony Steel-Dixon of Lorton Hall. The window was made by Mayer of Munich, and is much liked by parishioners and visitors, although the architectural historian Nikolaus Pevsner has called it ‘indefensible’ in his book ‘The Buildings of England – Cumberland and Westmorland’.
The building has fine acoustics, and since 1983 a number of concerts by top-ranking performers have taken place. A new electronic organ was installed in 1992
Loweswater – St Bartholomew’s Church
Location: Loweswater
The Church of St Bartholomew’s at Loweswater that you see today dates almost entirely from the year 1884, when a small plain Lakeland chapel consecrated in 1829 was extensively enlarged and improved. The work was undertaken because a leadmine was opened at Godferhead, and a vast expansion in population was predicted. In the event, the mine failed, and the population remained static.
Little remains of the earlier Church, except for the board on which the Ten Commandments, Creed and Lord’s Prayer were painted, which may still be seen on the East wall of the organ chamber. Another possible reminder of the old Church may be the nave windows.
Mosser – Old Church (St Michael)
Location : Cockermouth
St Michael’s Church at Mosser, 1773, is small, with nave and bellcote and chancel. It has one stained glass window – of the Holy Dove with multicoloured patterns of curling leaves and grapes.
Newlands Church
Location: Keswick / Newlands valley
Near the confluence of Newlands Beck, Scope Beck and Keskadale Beck, in the tiny hamlet of Littletown, is the small white-washed Church of Newlands. It was rebuilt in 1843 on the site of an earlier Church, and a gallery was added. In 1885 major refurbishments took place, but the 17th Century oak pulpit, reading desk and communion table were retained. The lecturn, made of sandstone and wood, is an interesting feature.
In May 1826 Wordsworth and his daughter were on a walking trip from Rydal Mount, and the poet was so impressed with the appearance of the Church through the trees, that he wrote a poem ‘To May’. The poem is on display in the Church.
The tiny building adjoining the Church was the school, built by parishioners in 1887, and which finally closed in 1967. It has recently been restored.
Castlerigg – St John’s in the Vale Church
Location : Threlkeld / Keswick
It is not certain how long there has been a Church on this site. The present building dates from 1845, but incorporates parts of older buildings. The earliest referance is 1554.
The site is unusual in that it seems somewhat inaccessible. However, the road which passes the Church was once an important road, part of a track from Matterdale to Wanthwaite. Inside, the building conveys a warm and homely atmosphere, without being inhibiting.
The panelling to pew height, was formerly the backs of the pews at Crosthwaite Church, Keswick. The altar was designed by Sir George Gilbert Scott, and was formerly at Crosthwaite Church. It was a gift to St John’s-in-the-Vale in 1893.
Setmurthy – St Barnabas’ Church
Location : Cockermouth
The Parish of Setmurthy is one of the smallest in the Diocese of Carlisle, with a total adult population of only 93. Many centuries ago, man left his mark here, as can be seen at the stone circle of Elva Plain, nearby, but there has never been a large population here.
There has been a Church here before 1225, but the present Church was built in 1794. In 1870 it was restored and altered, when the tower and belfry were added. In 1903 the baptistry was added to house the old font dated 1661. In 1880 unusual pitch pine decorations were added to the Church. There are several stained glass windows worth looking at, all being memorials to the Fisher family of Higham Hall.
Thornthwaite – St Mary’s Church
Location : Braithwaite / Keswick
Threlkeld – St Mary’s Church
Location : Threlkeld
It is probable that there has been a church in Threlkeld since the Dark Ages – and it is certain that there was a church in Norman times. Threlkeld is the oldest chapelry in the Diocese of Carlisle. It was in the parish of Greystoke, which served ten hamlets, four of which had chapels, Matterdale , Mungrisdale, Threlkeld and Watermillock.
In 1777 the Church was rebuilt, although the bell-tower is a remnant of an earlier Church. Two Bells were incorporated from a previous Church. One is certainly not less than 500 years old, and was made at the foundry of Johannes de Kurkham at York.
In 1911 the Church was restored, notably the flooring and interior woodwork. The pulpit was donated, and the font made from Threlkeld granite by a local man, Mr Knight. During the restoration oak boards were found under the wooden floor with scripture texts and the Ten Commandments painted on them in black letters. These were restored and fixed to the West wall. There is stained glass in the East window, given by Captain Olsen in memory of his wife, and designed by Francis Skeat in 1958. The communion kneelers were made by village people in the 1970’s.
Uldale – St James’ Church
Location: Ireby
St James’ Church in Uldale dates from about 1150, although this is not very evident today. The nave was rebuilt about 1730, and the windows are typical of the mid 18th Century. The well-proportioned door at the west end is of the same period.
The East window of Gothic design by an unknown artist and was probably inserted when the chancel was lengthened in 1837. The stained glass incorporates a tree with massed leaves, and a coat of arms.
The Church has a simple but pleasing appearance inside and out, and is in a very peaceful location beside the River Ellen looking to the Uldale Fells and Skiddaw. There used to be another Church in Uldale, St John’s, built in 1868, but this became unsafe and was demolished in 1963.
Wythburn Church
Location Thirlmere / Keswick
In the shadow of Helvellyn, Wythburn’s lonely position attracted the attention of the Romantic Poets. Hartley Coleridge described this little church as Wythburn’s ‘humble house of prayer’, Wordsworth described it as ‘Wythburn’s modest house of prayer’. It was formerly the spiritual centre of a small farming community, destroyed with the creation in 1894 of Thirlmere reservoir.
The church was built in 1640 and restored in 1872. In the apse one of the stained glass windows is by Henry Holiday. At the west end are two simple but good windows depicting Celtic saints – St Cuthbert, and St Herbert, who both lived in the 7th Century. St Herbert was the Lakeland saint who brought Christianity to the region, and lived on an island on Derwentwater.
There is some bronze work by the Keswick School of Industrial Arts. Outside is a stone erected by Canon Rawnsley commemorating two walks which inspired poems by Matthew Arnold.
Wythop – St Margaret’s Church
Location : Cockermouth
The present Church at Wythop, dedicated to St Margaret of Antioch, (who is depicted in the North chapel window) was consecrated by the Bishop of Carlisle on July 31st 1866. It was designed by Bruce of Whitehaven, and replaces the old church now in ruin, which can still be visited at Chapel Wood, Kelsick, and which dates back to the 14th or 16th Century. The new Church is built on land which belonged to the Vane Estate. (Lord Inglewood (Richard Vane) now lives at Hutton-in-the-Forest).
The Church is unusual in having the porch on the north side because of the fell-side site. The alter cross is made from wood taken from the ruins of the old church and covered in brass at the Keswick school of Industrial Arts.
More Churches:
- South Lakes area churches
- East Lakes area churches
- Eden Valley/North Pennines area churches
- West Lakes area churches
- North Cumbria area churches
- South Cumbria area churches
- Yorkshire Dales area churches
- Full list of churches
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